Devotion: Writing about Food

November 18, 2021 § 1 Comment

By Amy Rogers

Merriam Webster had just featured Kathy Biehl in their “Word of the Day” on October 22 when I rang the author to chat.

Her word? Devotion.

The example cited: “Restaurant loyalties run deep. Look at the scads of eateries that have drawn devotion for decades in the Park Cities, Preston Hollow, and environs.”

Biehl used the term to describe not a familial or romantic attachment – but a devotion to food. She doesn’t know how she was chosen, but it gave us a perfect entrée to talk about her award-winning journalism and her new book, Eat, Drink and Be Wary: Cautionary Tales (9th House Publishing).

Setting aside Biehl’s accomplishments covering topics that range from law to astrology, we focused on her food writing for this interview. Here’s our conversation, edited for clarity, and of course, brevity.

Q: Tell me how you got into food writing. What was your entry point?

A: My entry point was answering the phone. Seriously, I’ve been a writer for a long, long time. I was a feature editor at my high school newspaper. I started out as a journalism major in college. When I got disillusioned, I started doing a lot of freelance writing.

I’ve always been interested in the story, and in people. I have a snappy way of getting people’s attention. Someone I had dated had done the bar listings for Houston Texas Monthly, was going to quit, and phoned me. He said, “You want it?” and I went, “Yep.”

So I started having to encapsulate the atmosphere of vastly different bars, in really short amounts of words, like 60 words, and it was like I was writing poetry.

Q: When was that?

A: In the 1980s. And meanwhile, my freelance writing was expanding into all kinds of offbeat writing and things that show the flowering of the human spirit in weird and quirky ways.

Kathy Biehl

Q: Was there a point at which you declared yourself a food writer?

Well, here’s what happened. I walked into a bar one night, and a guy I had dated – there’s a theme here – who was a reporter for the Houston Business Journal, pulled me aside and said, “We’ve lost our restaurant critic. You’ve got the style. Do you want me to recommend you?”

I honed in on quirky places or unusual places, or found what was distinctive about what was going on. I came at it as a writer. I learned about the food aspect but I always approached it as a total experience.

Q: I love the piece in the book where you discuss the differences between snack food and junk food, because I’ve got to tell you, until today I never made a distinction. But now I do. I think those sly, sneaky, smart lessons are what sets a food writer apart, like writers such as Calvin Trillin. I hope you don’t take offense at me comparing you.

A: Oh, no. I’ve been compared to Hunter S Thompson. I’ll take that. I will take that.

Q: My favorite story in the book is the one about the all-night party at your friends’ estate in Britain, where you cavort about with all manner of food, music, and mayhem until the wee hours. I could just picture it and it was so lovely. Do you have advice or wisdom for writers who want to use the lens of food in their own practice and growth?

A: I really do believe that there’s a visceral, subconscious, cellular impact food has on us, and I really enjoy making sense of that. Writing about food challenges you to convey what you’re experiencing. It really challenges your use of language, because you can’t just say, “This is good,” or “This is tasty.” That doesn’t have any information in it. So you have to become aware of the language as actually translating your physical experience.

Amy Rogers

Q: I think this book can be a place for people to start to understand that food writing is more than restaurant reviews, and even though you’ve done a lifetime of those, the stories that accompany the experiences are what makes this so universal. Anything else that you would want to say on the topic of the writing life, the trials and tribulations, the joys or the heartbreak?

A: I’ve come to discover that there is a vibrant online publication community. I can remember sitting at the edge of the food journalists’ conferences and the people who had staff jobs would treat all of the freelancers like there was something inherently – a lack of journalistic integrity in us. I looked at them and thought, “We are the wave of the future. Just you wait.”


Kathy Biehl is an award-winning writer and observer of human quirks. For three decades she covered food, drink and the behaviors they inspire. Her writing has also focused on off-beat travel and translating the technicalities of law as well as astrology to the mainstream. Eat, Drink & Be Wary: Cautionary Tales is available on Amazon and through your local independent bookshop.

Amy Rogers is an award-winning writer, editor and independent press publisher. Books she has written include Hungry for Home: Stories of Food from Across the Carolinas and Red Pepper Fudge and Blue Ribbon Biscuits. Rogers is a frequent food and culture commentator for National Public Radio station WFAE, and a current contributor for The Food Network.

Exclusive: An Interview With Me

September 24, 2019 § 22 Comments

By Kristen Paulson-Nguyen

Before reading my essay “The Wave” on July 22, 2019 at Porter Square Books, I bought mints (my fans deserve fresh breath); large Band-Aids for my left leg (don’t ask); and facial blotting papers (shiny prose, good; shiny t-zone, bad). I asked a classmate for help pronouncing Ocean Vuong’s last name (it’s what any decent person would do). I had dinner with two members of my writing group (nothing heavy), and I made sure I was wearing my special shoes (gold ankle boots are an eternal fashion “do”).

Then I interviewed myself, to share some pointers that might help you read your work out loud. To an audience. Of people. Some of who may even like you (for now).

Kristen: Why didn’t you get a haircut? 

Kristen: I don’t know—I knew this reading was coming up months in advance. My favorite stylist, Chloe, left my salon, Shag, and I was afraid to ask them which salon she defected to because she was in exile.

Kristen: Did you check how many times you used the word “scholar?”

Kristen: I hope so! My high school English teacher, Ms. Stewart, drilled the importance of word variety into my head. Some writers find it helpful to create a word cloud to check which words they’ve used most.

Kristen: Will your husband record you from an unflattering angle, to be displayed for all of digital eternity?

Kristen: Yes. And I will have robot voice. But the writing is more important than how I look—at least that’s what they tell me—and the bonus of being alive to read my work can’t be beat.

Kristen: You seem to have had nothing to wear.

Kristen: I have a closet full of clothes. But I have chosen to wear the same stretchy black pants I wear every day. I’m hoping the accessories I’ve worn, which include the tooth or tusk or shell of some creature, will distract from my pants, and draw the eye gracefully upward.

Kristen: Omg Steve Almond and Ocean Vuong are reading tonight too, over at Harvard Book Store, so nobody may come to your reading.

Kristen: My friend Amy brought up this point (actually, a few people did), and I told them that I’m an emerging writer, so at my reading they will have no idea what to expect. Almond and Vuong have already emerged, so the audience would just get more of Steve’s New York Times-bestselling short stories and the heartrendingly beautiful poems that won Ocean the Whiting Award. Why not enjoy new work?

Kristen: Omg what if Steve Almond and Ocean Vuong came to your reading? You’d die.

Kristen: Correct. I’d die. And then faint. And then die. And then resurrect myself. And then ask them to come for a drink at Colette. And then fall off my barstool. And then ask them for an autograph.

Kristen: Is your essay too long?

Kristen: I’m a windbag of epic proportions, but I timed this sucker at home. Can we wrap it up? I think the audience was hoping to get to the wine soon.

Kristen: Do you think you should have chosen a different piece to read?

Kristen: For once I’ll try to be like the Edith Piaf song and have no regrets.

Kristen: I wonder if you still have time to revise. 

Kristin: Wait. I think I have a pen in my purse.


Kristen Paulson-Nguyen lives in Boston, where she invites you to join her in her self-imposed challenge to write an essay each week. Her micro-essay was published in Issue #71 of Creative Nonfiction. Kristen’s work has also appeared in Hippocampus Magazine. Her poem “Spring Birds” was exhibited in Poem Village, a project of the Adirondack Center for Writing. Follow her on Twitter @kpnwriter.

Photo credit: Lauren Rheaume

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